The Andaman Islands are one of those places people ask "where exactly is that?" about — and then, once you explain, they ask "and can you actually get there?" Once you've confirmed you can, they ask "but why?" That's when the real conversation starts. Because once you begin describing it, it's hard to stop.
This is a practical guide. Not a travel agency brochure. What's written here comes from years of fieldwork: what works, what doesn't, and what we couldn't find in any guide when we started exploring these islands ourselves.
The Islands: Before You Book Anything
The Andaman Archipelago comprises hundreds of islands, but most travellers visit a handful. Here's the overview that will organise your thinking before you book anything:
The capital. The only airport. The launch point for everything. Not a place to linger, but home to the Cellular Jail — a must-see.
The most popular island. Radhanagar Beach, dive reefs, a wide range of accommodation. About two hours by ferry from Port Blair.
Quieter, smaller, fewer crowds. Good for slowing down. Bharatpur and Laxmanpur beaches.
The southern edge. Isolated. Minimal tourist infrastructure. Where Surfing Andaman bases its surf trips.
Mangroves, limestone caves, deep green. Reached through a jungle corridor. One day is enough.
The Sentinelese island. Absolutely off-limits. This is not a recommendation — it's Indian law, with serious consequences.
Things You Shouldn't Miss
The Cellular Jail, Port Blair
This is not just another museum. The Cellular Jail (also called Kala Pani) is built like a star: seven wings radiating from a central tower, designed so a single guard could oversee them all without moving. 693 cells, each prisoner in complete isolation. The evening sound-and-light show tells the stories of the freedom fighters imprisoned here. Tickets are inexpensive. Don't skip this.
Radhanagar Beach, Havelock
In 2004, Time magazine declared Radhanagar Asia's best beach. It wasn't an exaggeration. A long stretch of white sand, shallow water in a colour that looks unreal. Recommendation: go at sunrise or sunset. Fewer people, extraordinary light.
Elephant Beach, Havelock
A short boat ride from the main harbour. The reef here is one of the most accessible for snorkelling in the islands: clear water, colourful fish, coral that justifies the trip. Don't miss it.
Ross Island (Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Dweep)
A small island opposite Port Blair. Once the British colonial headquarters. The ruins of a church, an officers' club, and the Governor's residence still stand — or rather, the jungle has taken them back. Banyan trees engulf the walls. Indian spotted deer wander freely between the ruins, entirely unbothered by visitors.
Baratang: Mangroves and Caves
The road to Baratang passes through the Jarawa tribal reserve. The tour is organised: convoys of buses run at set times, windows must be closed, photography is prohibited. The destination: a boat ride through dense green mangroves, then limestone caves with stalactites rarely seen elsewhere. Plan a full day.
Sunset at Radhanagar. Pink sea, sand still warm underfoot, no one else around. Then you understand why people come back twice.
Andaman vs Lakshadweep: Which Is Better for Surfing?
If you're researching a surf trip to India, you've probably come across both the Andaman Islands and Lakshadweep. They're both remote Indian archipelagos with extraordinary water — but they're completely different surf destinations, and the comparison is worth unpacking properly.
Lakshadweep sits off India's west coast in the Arabian Sea. It's a coral atoll system — flat, low-lying islands with predictable trade wind swells and some excellent reef passes, particularly around Bangaram and Agatti. Surfing Lakshadweep has attracted increasing attention from the global surf exploration community, and for good reason: the lagoons are breathtaking and some of the outer reef setups are world-class on the right swell. However, access is strictly limited — foreign nationals require a special permit, and the total tourist capacity is heavily restricted by the Indian government.
Andaman sits off India's east coast in the Bay of Bengal, catching swells from the open Indian Ocean. The terrain is completely different: mountainous, jungle-covered islands with reef point breaks rather than lagoon passes. Surfing in Andaman — particularly at Little Andaman — benefits from a longer fetch and swells that haven't been filtered by a shallow lagoon. The waves tend to be more powerful, less predictable, and the environment considerably more raw.
| Andaman Islands | Lakshadweep | |
|---|---|---|
| Wave type | Reef point breaks, some slabs | Reef passes, lagoon-facing breaks |
| Best surf season | Sep – Nov | May – Sep (trade winds) |
| Swell source | Indian Ocean (east) | Arabian Sea (west) |
| Access | Port Blair (open to all) | Restricted permit (foreign nationals) |
| Infrastructure | Basic but functional | Very limited, permit-controlled |
| Crowd factor | Very low — mostly empty lineups | Extremely low |
| Best for | Intermediate to advanced surfers seeking discovery | Intermediate surfers, strong snorkel/dive combination |
The honest answer: both are extraordinary. Surfing Lakshadweep offers something genuinely rare — a lagoon environment with consistent trade wind swell and a kind of untouched beauty that's very hard to find anywhere. Surfing in Andaman offers rawer, more varied waves, easier logistics, and a much richer cultural and historical context on land. If you can only do one, the Andaman is more accessible and offers a broader experience. If you're specifically chasing perfect lagoon waves on an atoll, Lakshadweep is worth the permit process.
Getting There: Logistics You Can't Afford to Miss
Flights: The Practical Route
Port Blair (IATA: IXZ) is connected to two main hubs:
- Chennai: ~2 hours' flying time. Most frequent connections. IndiGo, Air India, SpiceJet all operate this route.
- Kolkata: ~2 hours. A good option if connecting through eastern India.
- Delhi and Bengaluru: Both have one-stop connections. Slightly longer but entirely doable.
From international hubs, fly to Chennai or Kolkata first, then connect. Allow at least 3 hours between international and domestic flights — Indian airport connections can be slow.
The Ferry: For the Patient Only
There are cargo-passenger ships from Chennai to Port Blair. Crossing time: approximately 60–70 hours. Three days at sea. Unless you have unlimited time and a strong stomach, this is not the practical choice.
Visa: Most nationalities can apply for an Indian e-Visa online before travel, with approval sent by email. Cost is around $25–80 depending on country and visa type. At Surfing Andaman, we handle the visa process for all trip participants at no additional cost.
Getting Around: Between and Within Islands
Inter-island Ferries
- Port Blair → Havelock: 2–2.5 hours. Private operators Makruzz and Green Ocean are far more comfortable than government ferries.
- Port Blair → Neil: 1–1.5 hours.
- Havelock → Neil: ~45 minutes.
- Little Andaman: Overnight government ferry from Port Blair, ~8 hours. Uncomfortable but unavoidable.
On the Islands
Auto-rickshaws and taxis are available on the larger islands. Scooter rental is the best way to explore Havelock and Neil independently. Roads are simple, traffic is light, and riding through tropical jungle towards a deserted beach is entirely worth the small effort.
Accommodation: What to Expect
Forget luxury hotel chains. They don't exist on the islands.
- Port Blair: Decent 3-star options — Fortune Resort and Sinclairs Bayview are reliable. Clean, air-conditioned, basic.
- Havelock: Wide range, from budget hostels to eco-resorts with sea-view bungalows. Good competition keeps quality up.
- Neil Island: Smaller, more intimate. A few guesthouses and small resorts. The food here sometimes outshines Havelock.
- Little Andaman: Ieshika Resort, essentially the only option. Air-conditioned, clean, locally run with warm hospitality. This is our base for all surf trips.
Food: The Freshness You Won't Forget
The food in Andaman is one of the things visitors don't expect and then can't forget. The fish is always fresh — Snapper, Tuna, Barracuda — straight from the catch to the kitchen. Locals genuinely don't have a concept of "frozen fish."
The local dhabas (simple restaurants) serve seafood curries, rice, and seasonal vegetables. Real south Indian food, not a tourist version of it. Indian filter coffee is thick and strong, completely unlike anything you'll know from home. Chai in the morning is standard. Both are worth experiencing.
Practical Tips: Things No Other Guide Will Tell You
Permits: The Restricted Area Permit (RAP) was abolished in 2018. Foreign nationals no longer need special permission for most islands. The strict tribal area restrictions (Jarawa Reserve, North Sentinel) remain absolute — these aren't recommendations, they're law.
Best season: October to May. June–September is monsoon: rough seas, many places closed, ferries cancelled. Possible, but significantly less comfortable.
Surfing in Andaman: September to November are the peak surf months. Swells arrive from the Indian Ocean and the window is short — every trip we run is timed precisely around these conditions.
Sunscreen: Bring reef-safe, biodegradable sunscreen. The coral reefs here are fragile, and standard sunscreens containing oxybenzone damage them. In Andaman this isn't a general green tip — it's critical.
Mosquitoes and malaria: Andaman is a malaria zone. Consult a doctor before travel regarding preventive medication. DEET-based insect repellent is essential at dusk and after dark.
Cash: Andaman runs primarily on cash. ATMs exist in Port Blair and Havelock, but are scarce on Neil and Little Andaman. Withdraw what you need before leaving Port Blair.
Mobile signal: BSNL and Airtel work on the larger islands. Little Andaman has limited coverage. Wi-Fi exists at hotels but is slow. Consider this part of the experience rather than a problem.
What to pack: Swimwear, light clothing, reef shoes (for rocky entries), strong insect repellent, reef-safe sunscreen, personal snorkel mask and fins, a basic first aid kit, and any prescription medication you need. Pharmacies in Andaman are limited.
Andaman: Why Come, and Why Come Back
Some travellers arrive at the Andaman Islands expecting a beautiful beach. They find one. But Andaman doesn't explain itself in a single photograph: there's the sea, the jungle, and a quality of slowness that arrives because there's no alternative. Signal doesn't always exist. The ferry comes once a day. That's not a drawback — that's how the place works.
Surfers will find waves they didn't know existed. Divers will find reefs that aren't on any app. And those who arrive with no particular plan generally leave with a plan to return.
Andaman doesn't describe itself in advance. It describes itself after.